From the porch in Terlingua I noticed a converted bus in front of the art gallery… not too unusual. Terlingua attracts all sorts of alternative living people and out here a bus is not an unusual structure for a home. The only unusual part was that apparently this bus actually runs.
Later, at the community garden, the same bus was there. This time I noticed the sign: “free tea.”
Ok. I’ll bite.
I wandered over and met Guisepi, Mr. Tea, the free tea guy. Very quickly, I realized that he was a very special guy with an amazing mission.
During the Thanksgiving holidays the Terlingua Ghost Town was packed. Tourists from all over the world came to enjoy Big Bend National Park, Big Bend Ranch State Park, and Terlingua. There was a two hour wait to get into the Starlight Theatre. A line at the bathrooms. Traffic on the roads and lots of new faces on the porch.
Then, the holidays ended and the tourists returned to their points of origin, leaving just Terlinguists in Terlingua.
We appreciate the visitors, and the economy wouldn’t work without them- but, it’s also nice when it’s just locals. Last night, Laird Considine played the Starlight Theatre with Chase Peeler on Sax and Taylor Luttrell on fiddle. Dancing ensued.
At the Boathouse, James and Don were serving up delicious burgers as the locals gathered outside to watch the sunset. In the back, there was a cut-throat competitive scrabble game going on.
I didn’t make it down to the High Sierra and La Kiva is still under construction, but as I drove the 30 miles home- passing two cars on the way – I reflected on the fact that we’ve built a pretty nice little world down here.
The Chili Appreciation Society of America’s Chili Cook-off in Terlingua, Texas just has to be seen to be believed.
Tits, Beer, and Chili is the rallying cry.
Thousands of people, RVs, tents, 4-wheelers, and trucks create a temporary city between Terlingua and Lajitas. During the day, it’s a dusty, hung-over parking lot with redneck zombies wandering around nursing a “hair of the dog” that bit them the night before.
Tonight will be a combination of Mad Max and a Fellini film.
Last Wednesday, The Fabulous Vortexans, a blues band I’m proud to play with, performed for an appreciative crowd. The scene was impressive then. Since then, thousands more chili-heads have made the trip.
Tonight will be the big party- Chili will be served and judged, there will be music, dancing, pole-dancing, breast painting, and a LOT of alcohol will be consumed. I’ll be safely playing the Boathouse in Terlingua with Trevor Hickle and Laird Considine… darn it. The missed photo opportunity…
I drove through the site today just to get a feel for it- here’s some pics.
My view of the Terlingua Green Scene this year was limited, although I did get to watch the parade.
There were demonstrations of sustainable lifestyle strategies, lots to eat, and interesting costumes. There was also a celebration of Mark Kneeskern at the Starlight – really, the whole town – art auctions, dancing, and hugging.
Meanwhile, I played about 8 hours of blues at the Boathouse. From 1:30 til 3:30, Trevor Hickle, Ted Arbogast and I did a song-swap, guitar army style. Later, Moses Martinez and I did our blues thing, Alex Whitmore sat in and did a few songs, and then Moses had to go to the Starlight to play with the Jim Keaveny Experience- but the Boathouse was packed.
So, Trevor Hickle and I played for another couple of hours. People danced. We toasted Glen and Mark.
According to a little brown girl who would know, the benefit/auction raised almost $7K for the community garden.
Yesterday, Terlingua photographer Crystal Allbright held an opening featuring her photographs that were featured in the Big Bend National Park calendar. Go by Desert Sports and grab one of those calendars- they rock.
The parking lot at Desert Sports, which she runs with her husband, Mike, was packed with cars parked pretty much all over the desert.
Butch Morgan and Butch Hancock did a song swap at the Starlight Theatre during “Burger Night.”
It’s always a bit bizarre to hear Butch Hancock at a local venue. It shouldn’t be. He’s been a resident of Terlingua, off and on, for decades.
Butch also talked me into buying a new camera. Now, I’ve got to decide which one I want.
Butch Morgan was still in town- he came down for the “Terlingua Music Bash.”
Later, Jason Blum and Jenni Mansfield Peal sat in with Butch Morgan and did some songs. As I was leaving, John Hogan and Maria Moss were preparing to do a short set.
Marfa, during the Chinati Weekend art walk, is worth doing- to look at the art and to watch the people looking at the art.
Marfa is artsy on any given day. During the Chinati weekend, Marfa goes all out.
Terlingua/Marfa photographer, Jessica Lutz, had invited us to her opening/exhibit. Walking out of the Paisano after a delightful dinner, we noticed a woman giving away wine and mixed nuts on the sidewalk in front of the gallery there.
She explained that it was Chinati Weekend. I asked a nearby sculptor what that meant. He said, “it’s when people come to Marfa to give money to the Chinati foundation and look at local art.”
I asked him if anybody bought the local art and he said, “I’m hoping. Usually not.”
Jessica and Ka Yoll held their exhibit in an abandoned house. There was art in the ballroom, art in the warehouses, art on the street… everywhere you looked there was another art exhibit, filled with hip-chic people looking at art.
Following the wedding (Click HERE for that), Brittany, Billy and a few hundred of their friends and family adjourned to the Starlight Theatre in the Terlingua Ghost Town for a subdued and sober celebration.
There was a buffet dinner that tasted distinctly home-made- locally home-made. There was beer. There was a reggae band from El Paso.
I’ve tried to organize these pics so they tell the story. They’re unedited, for the most part, although I did play with a couple of them. I’ll get with the newlyweds later and find out which pics they want properly edited.
This was a uniquely Terlingua party. I got to meet people who have moved away but live on in stories and legends – and come home for parties.
As you can see from the pics, a good time was had by all.
Yesterday, Brittany and Billy hosted a beautiful celebration on the banks of the Rio Grande. And in the Rio Grande.
Later, there was an intimate gathering at the Starlight Theatre for a few hundred of their closest friends and family.
I took over 1,000 photos yesterday – whew! I chose a few to put up so you can share the experience. It was wonderful!
I’m putting these up so you can get an idea of what it was like. They’re nowhere near “ready for prime time.” At some point, I’ll sit down with the newlyweds and identify which shots they want me to focus on.